After flying for almost five hours with nothing to look at except barren desert the sudden appearance of the fertile Bekka Valley, the majestic snow capped mountains of Lebanon and the spectacular stretch of Lebanese coastline is certainly a sight for sore eyes. However these wonderful natural features also give a false impression of the country below, as I was enjoying the breathtaking views I couldn’t help but think of how tranquil and safe Lebanon looks from up here.
Within 15 minutes of enjoying arguably the best views on earth I found my self back with reality. We had landed at Beirut airport. For the second time that afternoon I was handing over my passport and for the second time another member of the Surete-Generale (General Security) or Amn al Aum in a military green uniform took a quick suspicious look at me and proceeded to shift through my passport. It was also the second time that afternoon I remembered the words of a dear friend of mine in Sydney, who said to me "If the Surete-Generale at the airport knew what you write about the government and the Syrian occupation than God help you."
Well I got past the Surete-Generale and with a sense of victory and some relief I entered Lebanon, my country of origin. At the airport I was met by my many relatives and by members of the Free Patriotic Movement (FPM), who I had met on my previous visit. As we left the airport for the beautiful coastal town of Jbeil, It was in Beirut were I received one of the shocks of my life, We drove in a city that is devoid of traffic lights, stop signs, pedestrian crossings or lane-markings something which I’m not accustomed to in Australia. I was the only person in the car who wore a seatbelt and I was quickly made fun of by my 4-year-old cousin, who saw me as more of a novelty than anything else. The cars tended to be either cannabilised 30-year-old Mercs that hardly move or brand new 2004 models. I noticed that everyone seemed to drive like Michael Schumacher but the only difference was that Schumacher tends to use his brakes once in a while.
On our way out of the hustle and bustle of Beirut I went through a mixture of emotions. On the one hand I was ecstatic at seeing my relatives and friends once again and I was eager with anticipation at the activities I’d be participating in with the FPM but on the other hand I felt sadness, I saw the physical scars of war still visible on people and buildings, I saw poverty and I saw the Syrian occupation. In 30 minutes I saw the results of 30 years of war, destruction and occupation. It did not leave me looking forward to the next 2 months.
I wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t say that a part of me wanted to go back to Australia right then and there, I didn’t like seeing Lebanon like this, and I thought to myself if this is how I’m feeling now, and I had just got there, how will I feel in a weeks time or even worse, a months time. In between the numerous questions of those in the car with me especially my inquisitive little cousin, who wanted to know if we have cows in Australia, I started to wonder about what had happened to Lebanon, why it had to come to this, after all it was a land whose 18 different religious communities were able to join together to form a nation.
The answer is quite complex, but in a nutshell the main reason for the demise of Lebanon is foreign interference and occupation. The main culprit is Syria. Due to the Syrian occupation Lebanon is actually the world's last satellite state. The government is appointed and controlled by Damascus in the same manner that a puppeteer would control his puppets. Contrary to the propaganda that emanates from Beirut and Damascus the only people who want the Syrians to stick around are those Christian and Muslim elites who have become rich by working for Damascus. The notion that the Lebanese people want the presence of the Syrian army is totally false and so is the premise that Lebanon would fall apart and the Lebanese would resume killing each other if the Syrians leave. Nothing can be further from the truth.
In fact if Syria was to leave the Syrian government would most definitely collapse. Lebanon is used to prop up Syria’s ailing economy. One such example is in the construction industry where Damascus ships in all the labour (thereby artificially lowering Syria's unemployment rate) and benefits from the money its work force sends home. The result of Syria’s brutal occupation of Lebanon stems into peoples everyday lives everyone is fed up with the Syrian mafia style cartels, the ridiculous censorship of the media, the lop sided economic and trade agreements, the dumping of inferior products on the Lebanese market, the heavy-handed secret police (Moukhabarat), the out of control bribery, embezzlement and corruption, the obvious siphoning of billions of dollars into the pockets of Syrian leaders, the sudden disappearance of people in broad daylight , the menacing intimidation, the bugging of telephones, the cars with dark tinted windows following you around, the cowardly manner in which politicians turn to Damascus. I can continue but I think I made my point.
While the above problems make the situation look bleak, there is a positive result from all this and that is the dawning of a new generation of committed, enthusiastic and above all patriotic Lebanese from all religions and areas. These young people in the FPM who are devoted to the cause of a free, sovereign and independent Lebanon, are in the front line in the fight against fear, oppression and occupation. The leaders of tomorrow have had to become the leaders of today. The students in the FPM have shown a sense of duty and responsibility way beyond their years. They will not be intimidated into being silent and they are not scared of being put in jail because of their ideals. I had the honour of working with these brave and courageous people and I am now sure that the future of Lebanon is in safe and stable hands.